| The front view. The headlight isn't acutally glowing, it's just from
the flash of the camera. You can see some detail in the
handlebars. The handlebars were the first things to deflate
after delivery. So using a less porous balloon, or double-stuffing
(or maybe even hi-float, which I don't use) may make them last
longer.
In all of the previous versions I always had problems with
the front fork and front frame assembly. Either something woudld
pop and need to be replaced, or would just end up a little
whoppy-jog, like the front wheel of this one.
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Details of the "engine assembly" which is a silver 260 looped
twice around the vertical part of the frame. The tailpipes are
another silver 260.. The tailpipes are supported by a red 260
cross-piece, along with stips of uninflated 260 to tie
them down. Keep the uninflated 260 straight and flat to make
it look nicer.
Note here again the longer top piece of the
rear frame member. That angles the rear wheel back a little
nicer, and making it less "bicycley".
the hardest part of this whole thing (outside of they hand strength
needed to make the seat. Dewey makes that look so easy)
was getting the stand to cooperate. Finding the right length takes
a lot of trial and error. I tried doing a stand on one side, with
an "L" with an ear twist and another little leg sticking out, but
either the bike would lean to the other side, or would crush the
fold twist. A 160 was too weak (but looked good in proportion),
and a 360 was just way-too-big. A piece of 260 with an ear twist
in the middle forced up into the frame was what I ended up doing.
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